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About Akolkar's
OM SAT NAAM
What is Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprises?
Does Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM treats all kinds of
objects?
How can I get a cost estimate for
treatment?
Can I get a schedule for Akolkar's OM SAT
NAAM
Enterprise’s preservation education programs?
Does Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprises appraise
books or manuscript materials?
Will Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprises restore or
appraise my books?
Will Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprises deacidify my
book collections?
What If I have other questions about
preservation of library and archives, Materials?
About Preservation
This list includes some of the more frequent questions posed to
Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM staff by callers. The answers given here provide
basic information, but it is important to remember that every
situation is different. If you are unsure about how to proceed,
it is always best to contact a preservation professional for
further advice. Contact Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprises
How can I remove the musty smell from old books?
How can I get rid of the smell of mildew in my books?
Our basement flooded and the pages of my high school yearbook
are stuck together - what can I do?
How should I store my family photographs and papers?
How long do laser-printed documents last?
I opened one of my books and saw a tiny bug crawling in it -
what should I do?
We have some old wooden bookcases in the library - how can we
treat them
To make them safe for our historical collections?
I have some
old leather books whose bindings are dried and cracked - Should
I put leather dressing on them?
How should I store my books?
How should I display documents or works of art on paper?
Can I save wet books? What if my books are moldy?
How can I preserve my family photographs for my grandchildren?
I have an infestation. How can I get rid of bugs in my books?
How can I preserve my newspaper clippings?
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About Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM
What is Akolkar's OM
SAT NAAM
Enterprises?
Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprises is a private conservation center whose
mission is to improve the preservation programs of libraries,
archives, museums, and other historical and cultural
organizations; to provide the highest quality conservation
services to institutions that cannot afford in-house
conservation facilities or that require specialized expertise;
and to provide leadership to the preservation field. The Center
provides preservation and education and consulting services as
well as conservation treatment see services offered.
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Does Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprises treat all kinds of objects?
Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprises specializes in the conservation
treatment of paper-based materials. These include books,
documents, manuscripts, photographs, and works of art on paper
(prints, watercolors, etc.), wallpaper, and unusual objects such
as globes. Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprises does not treat textiles, oil
paintings, furniture, sculpture, or other non-paper-based
materials. See the services offered.
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How can I
get a cost estimate for treatment?
Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprise’s conservators must examine the object to
be treated before a treatment proposal and cost estimate can be
given. Costs depend on the condition of the material and the
type of treatment that is needed, and each object is unique.
Objects can be brought to Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprises for
examination or they can be shipped. Once an object has been
examined, the conservator provides an estimate that sets out
options for treatment. The course of treatment must be approved
by the client before conservation treatment can begin.
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Can I get a schedule for Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprise’s preservation
education programs?
Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprise’s does not offer a regularly scheduled
series of workshops, but programs on basic preservation,
disaster planning, book repair, photograph preservation, and
preservation reformatting are offered periodically. Workshops on
other preservation topics can be designed to meet an
organization's needs. Contact Anand Akolkar, for more
information.
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Does Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprises appraise books or manuscript
materials?
Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprises does not offer appraisal services for
books or manuscripts it deals with the conservation,
preservation restoration of documents.
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Will Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprises restore or appraise my books?
Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprises will restore but not appraise any of the
collections.
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Will Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprises deacidify my book collections?
Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprises will deacidify any of the book
collection it receives, as its motto is to conserve preserve and
restore for the future.
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What If I have other questions about preservation of library and
archives, Materials?
Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprises will be pleased to answer all queries in
the matter.
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About Preservation
How
can I remove the musty smell from old books?
There is no guaranteed way to remove the musty smell from old
books, but there are several strategies that may be successful.
A musty smell is most Often noted in books that have been
exposed to high relative humidity and
May, have been moldy or mildewed in the past One strategy
involves creating an enclosed chamber. This is most easily done
by using two plastic garbage cans, one large (with a lid) and
one Small. An odor-absorbing material should be placed in the
bottom of the larger can. Materials that absorb odors include
baking soda, charcoal the object to be "deodorized" should be
placed in the smaller can, which is then placed inside the
larger can. The lid should then be placed on the larger can and
the chamber should be left for some time. You will need to
monitor the material periodically since the time required to
reduce the odors will vary from object to object.
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How can I
get rid of the smell of mildew in my books?
The smell comes from biological growth on books that are stored
in damp, dark, cool locations. Check for active or dormant mold.
Remove the materials to a drier (but still cool) environment,
and make sure that plenty of air is circulating around them.
These conditions should render the biological growth dormant. If
the mildewed materials are stored for an extended period under
such conditions, the smell will eventually disappear of its own
accord. The same technique can be applied to dry books affected
with active mold. If you can see mold growth, DO NOT attempt to
clean it off under the materials are thoroughly dry. Premature
cleaning attempts will grind the mold into the covers or paper
and cause stains that are often impossible to remove. A short
exposure to sunlight and circulating air outdoors also may help
to rid the books of the mildew smell. Remember, though, that
light damages paper-based materials. Drying materials in the
sunlight may result in some darkening or fading of book
materials and paper, so select this approach only with materials
for which such damage is considered acceptable.
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Our
basement flooded, and now the pages of my high school yearbook
are Stuck together - what can I do?
Unfortunately, there may be little you can do. Most yearbooks
are printed on glossy coated paper; the same paper is used in
many art books. When coated paper gets wet and then begins to
dry, the coating on facing pages sticks together. Once this
occurs, it generally cannot be reversed. Freezing within about 6
hours, followed by vacuum freeze drying, can be Successful in
saving this type of material. The vacuum freeze drying must be
carried out by a commercial service, however, and is relatively
expensive.
In many cases, the pages are only partially stuck together. If
this is the case, you can try to gently separate the pages with
a Teflon-coated folder or micro spatula (available from
conservation suppliers). There will be some loss in areas where
the pages were stuck, but other parts of the information may be
salvageable. Another strategy is to locate another copy of the
yearbook. If you cannot purchase or otherwise acquire one, you
might borrow a copy and have a good-quality photocopy made. The
photocopy could then be bound by a library binder. Some public
libraries maintain collections of local school annuals It is
also possible to bring the item to a conservator for an
evaluation. A conservator may or may not be able to improve the
object's condition. If treatment is feasible, it will likely be
time-consuming and expensive, so this option should usually be
limited to items with high monetary or sentimental value.
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How
should I store my family photographs and papers?
Family photographs and papers should be protected from excessive
heat, humidity and pollution. Attics and basements are the worst
storage areas because of the extreme heat and humidifies
normally found in those areas. It is better to store family
collections on the upper shelf of a closet in the main part of
the house where temperature and relative humidity tend to be
relatively stable. Photographs and papers should be protected
from light. Color photographs are especially vulnerable to
deterioration. Exhibited items should not be placed in direct
sun or in bright areas, and it is best not to exhibit any
particular photograph or document permanently. Important
materials that will be kept over the long term should be stored
in archival-quality enclosures. For papers, this usually means
lignin-free buffered folders and boxes. For photographs, stable
polyester enclosures are usually best. Conservation suppliers
offer both polyester pages with pockets for photos and polyester
and paper photo corners that can be used to mount photos on
neutral pH album pages. Never use polyvinyl chloride (PVC)
plastic pages or "magnetic" photo albums (these actually hold
the photos in place with adhesive that is damaging) Videotapes
are also vulnerable. They have a limited life expectancy, and
should be copied onto new tape every 10-15 years
If a clipping is being retained solely for informational
purposes, a simple preservation strategy is to photocopy the
newspaper clipping onto archival-quality paper. Newsprint paper
is extremely poor quality and will continue to deteriorate even
if it is non aqueous deacidify or washed some inks are soluble
in commercially available de-acidification sprays, and some
colors may change when they are alkalized. As a result, any
document to be treated should be tested before it is sprayed.
Photographs should never be deacidified.
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How long
do laser-printed documents last?
The stability of a laser-printed document depends largely on the
quality of paper used and the degree to which the toner adheres
to the paper. Archival-quality paper should be used. Among other
things, this standard requires the paper to have a pH of 7.5 or
above and a calcium carbonate content of over 2% (calcium
carbonate is a buffering material that raises the pH of the
paper and fights against future acid deterioration). Many papers
on the market today meet the standard. A toner with a stable
pigment such as carbon black should be used, and the printer
should be regularly maintained and serviced.
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I opened
one of my books and saw a tiny bug crawling in it - what should
I do?
You may be seeing booklice (also known as psocids) or
silverfish. Booklice are extremely small, about 1-2 mm long.
Silverfish are larger (up to 12.5 mm) and over time can eat
holes in paper. The presence of silverfish and psocids often
indicates a humidity problem in a storage area. If booklice or
silverfish are noted, the first step should be to inspect
collections to determine whether the problem is widespread or
isolated. If only a few insects are seen, try to address the
problem by reducing the humidity in the space and isolating and
vacuuming the affected materials. You can monitor the area for
additional insect activity with sticky traps available from
local hardware stores, University Products, and other suppliers.
If these measures are not successful, or if the problem is
widespread, additional measures may be necessary. Non-chemical
measures are preferable to chemical treatments. It is best to
contact a preservation professional to discuss appropriate
options.
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We have some old wooden bookcases in the library - how can we
treat them to make them safe for our historical collection?
Many libraries have built-in wooden shelving that is used for
the storage of historical collections. From the perspective of
preservation, it is best to store collections on metal shelving,
since wood shelving can give off damaging pollutants. If wood
shelving must be used, there are several steps that can be taken
to minimize damage to collections. None of these actions will
provide complete protection, however. All wood shelves should be
sealed; currently the best choice for sealant is moisture-borne
polyurethane. Oil-based paints and stains should be avoided. Any
sealant should be tested for chemical stability before use. In
addition, shelves can be lined with museum board, polyester
film, glass, Plexiglas, or an inert metallic laminate material
to prevent materials from coming into direct contact with the
wood. If collections must be stored in closed wooden cabinets or
shelving, the cabinets should be aired out several times a year
to minimize buildup of damaging fumes.
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I have some old leather books with dried and cracked bindings -
should put leather dressing on them?
The use of leather dressings (neat’s-foot oil, lanolin, etc.)
was widespread in libraries for many years, but the conservation
community now recommends that it be avoided in most cases.
Research and experience have shown that leather dressings can
have some undesirable side effects. Damaging, disfiguring
effects can include discoloration, staining, and stickiness of
the leather, wicking of oil into adjoining materials including
text blocks, and increased danger of mold growth on treated
materials. Leather dressing can be appropriate for some objects,
but it should be used very sparingly and advice should be sought
from a conservator before using it.
The leather on my books is worn and scuffed. Should I oil my
leather books? Leather dressings were at one time thought to be
useful in extending the life of leather bindings. Experience has
shown, however, that the benefit is primarily cosmetic and that
inexpert use of leather dressing does more harm than good.
Studies have shown that leather dressing can cause the leather
to dry out over time. Leather may become stiffer, accompanied by
darkening or surface staining. If too much dressing is applied
too frequently, the surface of the leather may become sticky and
attract dust and the oil stains and deteriorates the paper
Consolidates l can be applied by book conservators to bind dry
rotted leather and keep it from offsetting onto other books or
text blocks. For handling purposes, polyester film jackets can
be made for books.
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How
should I store my books?
Store books out of direct sunlight and where air can circulate
freely. Store Them away from windows and don't put them on
shelves against outside walls Store books on flat, smooth
shelves that are strong enough to support their weight. Ideally,
books should not be in contact with unsealed wood because it can
release damaging acidic vapors. Line shelves with acid free
board to prevent this problem. Stand books vertically side by
side. Keep similar sizes together: small books next to small
books, and large books next to large books. Use bookends to keep
the books from falling over, and be sure they are high enough to
support the books completely.
Avoid storing books in an attic or basement because attics get
too hot and basements get too damp. Both are also subject to
rapid changes in temperature and humidity levels. Keep books out
from under plumbing and water pipes; water damage from these
sources is all too common. To protect books with monetary or
sentimental value, keep them in custom-fitted archival boxes
made from high-quality materials.
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How should I display documents or works of art on paper?
Protect such items by hinging them into mats that have both a
back board and a window board. Ask your picture framer for
museum-quality mat board. To be of museum quality, the board
must be free of acid (alkaline, ideally pH 7 to pH 9) and
colored with non-damaging dyes that don't run if they get wet.
The bocould be 100% cotton rag or chemically purified wood pulp
(high alpha-cellulose and negative to lignin). Poor quality mats
can damage the pictures they are supposed to protect. The most
common damage is dark yellow staining, particularly around the
edges of the window mat that frames the picture. Known as "mat
burn," the stain is caused by migration of acidic components in
the board. Mat burn can discolor an item dramatically and is
also an indication of chemical damage to the paper.
The method used to mount the document or picture in the mat is
critical. It should be attached to the backboard of the mat with
long-fibered paper hinges (Japanese paper, usually) and cooked
starch paste. Although a straightforward procedure,
accomplishing it successfully can be tricky, so it's best to
leave the task to a trained conservator or professional picture
framer. A, less complicated, but still archaically sound,
alternative insecure the item in the mat with photo corners.
High-quality polyester or paper photo corners can be purchased
from conservation suppliers. NEVER hinge pictures with
pressure-sensitive tape (including masking tape, "invisible"
tape, quick-release tape, cellophane tape, double-stick tape,
and the so-called "archival" tapes). NEVER use rubber cement,
stick glue, spray adhesives, or dry-mount adhesives. Do not use
brown paper tape (moisture-activated gummed adhesive) or animal
glues. All tapes and adhesives of these types will stain the
paper and may cause inks and colors to "bleed." Many lose their
adhesive properties and fall off with age, leaving behind a
residue that is unsightly, damaging to the item, and difficult
(or impossible) to remove. If removal of such adhesives and the
stains they cause is possible, the work should only be entrusted
to a trained conservator. Improper treatment can damage items
irrevocably, greatly reducing their beauty and value. Use a good
frame that is well-constructed and has mitred joints. The frame
should be sturdy enough to support the weight of the object.
Glass or acrylic should be used as glazing. Glazing should never
touch the work of art. The preservation purpose of a window mat
or spacer is to prevent such contact. All light, natural and
artificial, damages paper-based materials. Sunlight and
fluorescent lights are particularly damaging. Light damage can
be reduced by using ultraviolet-filtering glazing. Acrylic
glazing should not be used in the framing of pastels, charcoal
drawings, or pictures with flaking pigments because they tend to
develop a static charge that can lift powdery media right off
the paper.
If the document or art work to be framed needs conservation
treatment, a conservator should be consulted before any work is
undertaken. This is particularly the case with items that have
high monetary, historic, or sentimental value.
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Can I
save wet books? What if my books are moldy?
Yes. Books can be air-dried, or frozen and then dried at a later
date. The most important thing to do to save your wet books is
to take action immediately, or as soon as possible, after they
have gotten wet. In warm and humid conditions, mold can begin to
grow within 24-48 hours after the materials have gotten wet.
Stabilize and air dry as much of the collection as possible.
What cannot beat dried in 48 hours, can probably be frozen to
stabilize and dry at a later time. Check with a conservator. Fan
volumes open and stand them on the top or bottom edge on an
absorbent material which is changed as it becomes wet. As the
book dries turn it upside-down. Humidity levels should be
maintained below 75% RH with dehumidifiers. Low temperatures
will assist in the avoidance of mold problems. Increasing air
circulation will dry out most items efficiently. Use electric
fans to provide maximum air circulation, but do not point them
directly at the drying books. Weather permitting, set up a
drying space outdoors, under cover. Mold is the greatest risk
and hazard, both to books and to humans. If you suspect or see
mold, or think that the water may have been contaminated with
sewage or harmful chemicals, you must wear protective clothing,
gloves, and a mask while salvaging your books. Also, take strict
precautions to protect your skin and lungs. If mold is present,
seek professional advice and proceed with caution. If any
negative health effects are observed, contact a doctor,
mycologist, or both, before proceeding. Local colleges and
universities can help you find a mycologist.
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How can I
preserve my family photographs for my grandchildren?
Store photographs at 25 degrees C. and 30-40% relative humidity
(HR) in a closet or air-conditioned room. Don't store them in
the attic or basement. Higher humidity levels speed up
deterioration; very low humidity may cause prints to crack, peel
or curl. Storage at lower temperatures is particularly advised
for contemporary color prints.
Avoid exposing photographic materials to anything containing
sulfur dioxide, fresh paint fumes, plywood, cardboard, and fumes
from cleaning supplies. Store photographs in proper enclosures
made of plastic or paper materials which are free of sulfur,
acids, and peroxides. Preservation quality paper storage
enclosures are available in buffered (pH 7.5-9.5) and unbuffered
stock. Stable plastic enclosures are made of uncoated polyester
film uncoated cellulose triacetate, polyethylene, and
polypropylene. All materials used for storing photographic
collections should pass the PAT (Photographic Activity Test) and
will be marked as such by suppliers of high quality photographic
enclosures. If relative humidity cannot be controlled
consistently below 80%, plastic enclosures should not be used
because photographs may stick to the slick surface of plastic.
Avoid acidic paper envelopes and sleeves, polyvinyl chloride
(PVC) plastic, rubber bands, paper clips, and poor-quality
adhesives such as pressure-sensitive tapes and rubber cement.
Buffered enclosures are preferred for deteriorated photographic
prints on poor-quality mounts. Avoid the cheap, readily
available "drugstore type" photo albums. Instead buy albums made
of high quality materials. Generally, use photo corners and only
those materials that are known to have passed the PAT tests.
Particularly, avoid albums with sticky adhesive pages.
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I have an
infestation. How can I get rid of bugs in my books?
Identify the bug if possible (trap one with sticky pest strips)
and try to answer the following questions that a professional
will ask you: Is the insect already dead or alive and how many
insects are there? How many books are affected and with what
kind of damage? Have you seen insects like this elsewhere in
your home? Where have the books been stored and are they damp or
moldy? How valuable and old are the books? Isolate the affected
books by placing them in a tightly sealed plastic bag. Seek
assistance from an entomologist. A local university or state
extension service should be able to put you in touch with one.
Fumigation must be performed by professionals under controlled
conditions. Non-chemical preventive measures against insects
include: Seal entry points including windows, doors and put
filters on vents. Keep room temperatures and humidity levels low
(insects need water, too). Keep the environment clean and
dusted, and don't store books near food or rubbish, ET Desiccant
dusts like diatomaceous earth or silica, can be used around the
perimeters of a room, but will not be effective for insects with
a winged portion of the life cycle.
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How can I
preserve my newspaper clippings?
Newspaper is made from wood fibers and it will turn dark and
brittle very quickly, particularly when exposed to light.
Although it can be chemically treated to slow down further
deterioration, many of the treatments will also darken the
paper. Newspaper will damage other paper or photographic
materials with which they are stored if the other items are not
protected from them. The only way to preserve the original is to
store them properly: Place clipping in a polyester film folder
with a sheet of alkaline buffered paper behind it. Put the
polyester folders in file folders and boxes of high-quality
acid-free, alkaline buffered materials .Store in a cool and dry
location, such as a closet in an air-conditioned room.
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